Ask The Pro: Diane Da Costa

Meet the Pro:

Diane Da Costa is the "Go-to-Girl" for the beauty industry, a celebrity stylist and curly textured hair guru to thousands of African queens, Latinas and women of all colors. Ms. Da Costa is the Master Cutter & Expert for the Milady Perspecitive In Hair Design: Cutting Curly Textured Hair DVD Series with Diane Da Costa, which launched in November, 2013 by Milady/Cengage Learning Publishers. In July, 2013 the 2nd Edition of the Milady Standard Natural Hair Care & Braiding textbook was published with Ms. Da Costa as Contributing Author & Editor.

Ms. Da Costa is a licensed cosmetologist, master colorist and writer. She holds a B.B.A in Marketing from Pace University and resides in New Rochelle, NY. She is the founder and principal executive of Beautiful Fund, LLC"

Q: My hair is very tight and dry. How do I determine which natural oil is best for my hair and how long do I wait to see if the oil is working? — Karen Smith

A: Botanical oils and  essential oil treatments are best to use for tight dry hair, with a vapor steam treatment. Moisture and hydration can only be achieved with moisture infused into the hair shaft and cuticle. The oils will soften, replace, or add any missing natural oils from your scalp. This treatment will work right away; the more often you treat your hair, the more you’ll see longer lasting effects. I recommend a treatment every three to four weeks.

I also recommend an oil treatment. If the scalp is dry, try the serum as a pre-shampoo, before you shampoo and condition.

Q: I have at least three different textures in my hair. Is there anything I should be doing differently to manage them all? — Tahira Harrison

A: It’s common to have more than one texture in the hair. To condition the hair, apply a moisture hydration conditioner cocktail with essential oils to soften and deeply moisturize any sections that are too tight or too dry. Apply more conditioner to those areas that are tighter and comb through the hair with a wide tooth comb to penetrate evenly. Condition and steam the hair to get more hydration.

For styling, apply leave in conditioners to protect and stretch the curl, then apply additional products to areas that are tighter and courser than the wavy or curly areas. Often coily or very curly hair is more porous and requires more product. Also, use a heavier styling enhancer in areas that are courser or tighter.

Q: My hair is growing everywhere except on my edges. What can I use that will help them fill in? — Connie Moore

A: There are many factors why your edges may not be growing in. You may have Traction Alopecia from braids, weaves, or from pulling the hair too tight. If the follicles have been destroyed, the hair may not grow back at all. If they are just damaged, you can try taking 2500 mcg Biotin vitamins every day and massage your scalp with a scalp renewal to exfoliate the dead cells and open up the pores and lubricate the scalp every night. You can also apply a naturally medicated foam. Apply twice per day to areas that are thinning.

Q: It seems like nothing I use will keep my hair moisturized. What am I doing wrong? — Quinn Louis

A: Moisture must come from the inside first and not from what you apply to your hair. It’s important to drink at least 32 ounces of water to hydrate the hair from the inside. Give yourself a water vapor steam once per week with a hydration moisturizing conditioner. Then you can apply moisturizer to the hair if it is very dry. Try products made with shea butter, vitamins, and essential oils. A little goes a long way. Apply when styling, massage at night, and as needed every day.

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